Coming up this weekend is Cinco de Mayo, that popular holiday where much Mexican food is washed down with cerveza and tequila. But even though the day commemorates a Mexican victory, it has become more of a North-of-the-border fiesta with not as much attention paid to it in its native land.Cinco de Mayo is often mistaken as Mexican Independence Day but that happens later in the calendar on September 16. Instead, this event marks the Mexicans’ incredible triumph (lead by the Texas-born Commanding General Ignacio Seguin Zaragoza) over the French in The Battle of Puebla (where the Mexicans were outnumbered almost two to one) on, of course, May 5, 1862. And while the French continued their attempt to take over Mexico for a few more years, this accomplishment not only boosted the Mexicans’ morale but was also a key factor in thwarting Napoleon III’s attempt to aid the Confederate states in the American Civil War.
In the early 1900’s, Mexican immigrants to the United States brought the celebration with them and in the 1960’s it grew in popularity as a day to honor ethnic pride. And for good reason as the day has long symbolized the strength of the Mexican spirit. But today, much of that original sentiment is lost behind the marketing. Sadly, it’s been demoted to just an excuse to sell more beer, tequila and tortilla chips. And you don’t even have to be of Mexican descent to join in the hype. In my neighborhood, the Irish pubs are also touting the day with signs and specials, and I noticed that even a French restaurant is having a Cinco de Mayo celebration. (Clearly, they either have an excellent sense of humor or have no idea what the day really means.)
You’ll hear of people traveling to, say, San Antonio for Cinco de Mayo festivities, but rarely do you hear of anyone going to Mexico to celebrate the day. Why is this? Probably because in most of the country, they’re about as excited about Cinco de Mayo as we are about President’s Day. It’s not even a federal holiday there. My friends in Mexico City shrug at the mention of it; it’s just no big deal. But while most of Mexico takes little notice of Cinco de Mayo, at least the people in Puebla put on a proper celebration with people dancing and eating and drinking in the streets. And for good reason, the battle was, after all, fought and won in their state.So considering the holiday’s origin, if you’re having a Cinco de Mayo celebration why not serve a Pueblan dish? Two hours south of Mexico City, Puebla is a place teeming with colorful markets, exquisite architecture and fabulous food, a cuisine so wonderful that it’s been championed as the gastronomic capital of Mexico. Unfortunately, I haven’t traveled there yet, but I have had the pleasure of sampling some traditional Pueblan dishes. There’s mole poblano, the rich and complex sauce made of chiles, nuts, dried fruit and chocolate. Or cemitas—the Pueblan’s version of a torta—a mountain of meat, avocado, cheese and chiles all sandwiched between a sweet, sesame-seed bun. But one of my favorite Pueblan delights is tinga, a lively, tangy stew made up of pork, chorizo, tomatoes and chipotles.
Tinga is a perfect party dish because it can feed many and be made a day or so ahead of time. Traditionally it’s served on crisp tostadas but it can also be wrapped in warm tortillas, piled on tortilla chips, or even eaten with a spoon out of a bowl. Some may make it with chicken or veal, but my favorite style is tinga de puerco. The tender, toothsome strings of pork coupled with the piquant and vinegary chorizo, bright tomatoes and smoky chipotles makes for a complex, hearty dish. And when you add some cotija (that crumbly Mexican white cheese), cilantro, avocado and a squirt of lime, you've not only created a delectable dish, but you've also paid homage to the colors of the Mexican flag.
So whether or not you celebrate Cinco de Mayo, if you like the marriage of succulent meat with spicy chipotles, you should try tinga. I brine the pork, so there is some waiting involved, but be patient, actual cooking time is short and it’s a snap to put the dish together. If you don’t eat meat, no worries, the simple chipotle sauce can also be used with potatoes, beans, tofu or TVP. And while I never need an excuse to eat Mexican food, I do think that serving this spirited, soulful Pueblan treat on Cinco de Mayo seems like a proper way to honor the day.Tinga
Ingredients:
1 pound of pork shoulder or tenderloin, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 pound of Mexican chorizo (do not use Spanish chorizo. It’s a completely different meat. )
1 bay leaf
1 large onion
5 cloves of garlic
3 chipotle peppers in adobo
1 cup of peeled ripe Roma tomatoes (about 4). You can use canned ones if tomatoes aren’t in season
1/2 teaspoon of Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon of thyme
1/2 cup of cilantro
Black pepper
Salt
1 avocado thinly sliced
Cortija cheese
1 lime cut into wedges
Method:
First you want to brine your pork for at least four hours. Put the pork in a bowl and cover with six cups of water. Add six tablespoons of salt, three tablespoons of sugar and two tablespoons of black pepper and a clove of garlic, minced. Cover with a plate to keep the meat underwater, and refrigerate for four hours, brining it up to eight hours. (Do not over-brine!). After you’re done brining the meat, rinse the meat. pat it dry and throw out the brine water.
Place brined pork in a large pot with half the onion (uncut), the bay leaf, a clove of garlic and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 45 minutes until tender.
Take out cooked pork (save the cooking water) and when cool shred it. Set it aside.
Dice the other half of the onion and mince the three remaining garlic cloves.
Cook the chorizo out of its casing in a dry skillet until brown, about eight minutes. Carefully tilting the skillet, drain the oil to one side and then remove the chorizo.
Puree the tomatoes in a blender with the three minced garlic cloves and chipotle peppers with adobo.
Transfer the chorizo oil to a pot, and then cook the onions in the oil on medium for about five minutes or until soft and then add the tomato-chipotle puree, Mexican oregano and thyme. Cook for five minutes on medium, and then add the shredded pork, chorizo, 1/4 cup of cilantro and one cup of the pork cooking water (you should freeze the leftover pork cooking water because it will make a good stock for cooking beans). Bring to a boil and then cover and simmer for 15 minutes. It should be thick. If it’s too liquidy, just cook uncovered for a few minutes. Add salt to taste.
Serve on fresh tostadas, either store bought or made from corn tortillas. To make tostadas, heat an inch of oil in a skillet and fry whole tortillas on each side a couple of minutes until crisp. Place a hearty spoonful of tinga on the crisp tostada and then sprinkle on top cotija cheese (if not available, you can substitute Monterrey jack or sour cream) and the remaining cilantro. Serve with sliced avocado and lime wedges. This recipe will yield about 10 to 12 tostadas.
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