I'm a big fan of bitter greens. Kale, chard, rocket, chicory. Many seem to pop up when the weather is still cool, and while they certainly hold their own in a simple sauté, they really become a meal in a dish like this.
Chicory au gratin - endive, for the North Americans - salty, creamy, and slightly peppery. Warming, but not too filling, it makes an ideal side dish or a simple meal with some sliced sourdough bread. The bitterness of the chicory is balanced by the saltiness of the cream sauce, but not entirely muted - that's part of the appeal of bitter greens, anyhow.
*****
2 heads of chicory, washed and sliced in half, bottoms trimmed
1 cup whole milk
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. flour
1 clove garlic, minced
a pinch of allspice
3 tbsp. parmesan, grated
olive oil
salt and pepper
1. In a small saucepan, melt your butter and stir in your flour, forming a roux. Whisk in your milk and bring to a simmer until thick. Stir in your garlic and allspice, and season to taste. Set aside. 2. In a frying pan over medium heat, fry your chicory in a little olive oil until it just begins to look glossy, but not entirely translucent, about a minute per side. 3. In an ovenproof dish, line your chicory end to end and pour over your cream sauce. Top with the parmesan and bake at 200 C (400 F) for twenty minutes, or until golden and bubbling.
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