Koya
49 Frith Street,
London, W1D 4SG
I was a little late on the Koya train, if I'm honest. Since it opened in 2010, many have been quick to applaud its quick, affordable, and high quality approach to udon. Reviews have popped up on a smattering of London food blogs, and it's pretty much the first recommendation that Time Out lists for Soho restaurants.
So why I am writing about it? Because it is by far my favourite restaurant. I'm addicted. I can't stop talking about it. And I can't stop taking people to eat here.
I'm pretty hooked on noodles on an ordinary day, but when I first stepped through the non-descript curtain that serves as the entryway to Koya it was like stepping into tiled-floor, utilitarian-decor heaven. With homemade udon noodles. Dear god...
And did I mention the walnut miso? This is really the thing that keeps me going back to Koya. Walnut miso - sweet, sour, salty, and peanut-buttery in texture, I could eat it on a spoon, on its own, every day. I normally order their kinoko hiya-atsu, cold udon with hot broth, with an array of mushrooms, cabbage, and walnut miso. But unlike so many restaurants, the vegetables here are really top-notch - the mushrooms are all really perfect, and the broths aren't over-seasoned. There is a lightness to everything here.
Koya serves udon in three ways - hot noodles in hot broth, cold noodles in hot broth, or cold with sauce for dipping. I go for the cold noodles in hot broth simply because I love the contrast - and I also order tempura bits to sprinkle on top, adding a pleasing crunch to the whole experience. They also do a number of small plates - on my most recent visit, a delectable fried tofu dumpling served in a mild broth with chanterelles - and donburi. And while the udon is definitely the reason to come, they do everything quite well. Go and you will be converted. I promise.
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