168 Highgate Road
London, NW5 1QS
(Image by Euan Munro)
When I first came to the UK, I was completely confused by the idea of the gastropub. I didn't quite get the difference between a pub that was intended for drinking and the newer, middle-class breed of pubs for posh pubfood. I'm not sure I understood the need, when there was a perfectly good selection of restaurants on offer, and couldn't quite fathom why one would go to a pub in search of a meal.
But that kind of thinking melted away fairly quickly when I realised how poor the food in most pubs was, and how lovely it was to sit in a nice gastropub, drink in hand, munching away at some really posh chips or a nice plate of gnocchi. Seems incongruous, but it's become something I don't really like the idea of going without.
Enter The Bull and Last, my local. It's about fifty yards from my house and directly across from Hampstead Heath. This makes it both a complete draw on a hot, sunny day and a complete nightmare, because it is almost always packed with local families and dogs, slowly sipping their pints, munching on artisanal cheeseboards and scotch eggs. But if you can find yourself a spot - weeknights are doable if you get there early, weekends if you book - you're in for a treat.
The focus here is on provenance, traditional but well-executed dishes, and a community atmosphere. To be fair, they specialise in meat and meaty bits - including pigs' ears for dogs - and as a vegetarian, I don't really partake of such things, but I can endorse the fact that they are really responsible about their sourcing and have a fairly strong nose-to-tail attitude to meat. Everyone in my family eats meat and I'd happily bring them here to eat. The bulls' heads on the walls are a bit serious-looking, but there's also a nice map of London and some antique locks strewn about to distract the eye.
But on my end, I come here for two things: triple-cooked chips and courgette fritters. The chips, perhaps more akin to roast potatoes, are giant nuggets of crisp, fluffy potato, served up with homemade mayonnaise. They aren't cheap (as chips) at £3.50 but they are a meal in themselves. On a sunny day after swimming on the Heath, chips with a pint - you will get nothing better.
And the fritters. Dear god, why did I not discover these many years ago? On my last visit they did a three vegetable fritto misto, including courgettes and celery leaves, but have typically done shoestring-thin bits of courgette in an airy batter, fried into a tiny nest of salty perfection. Dipped in sherry vinegar, I could eat plate after plate of these. Their crispness dissolves on the tongue in such a way that it's almost like eating nothing at all - but it's really, really satisfying.
It's worth mentioning that The Bull and Last also does some nice puddings, including homemade ice cream, and a very popular sunday lunch. Their burgers, on sourdough bread stacked high with cheese, gherkins, and meat (but which aren't always on the menu), have been a favourite amongst my friends. And their salads are really very nice, especially as in the summer they do some nice mixed greens with pea and cheese curd fritters. Delightful. On a Sunday, the pub quiz means the place is completely packed well in advance, so booking is definitely advisable, and setting aside a bit of a budget is a good idea, as this is in no way a cheap menu. But that's never stopped me, and once you taste those chips, it won't stop you either.
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