I've mentioned missing Britain and my favourite London haunts, so, once again, I've been searching in the kitchen for a solution. This time it takes the shape of my absolute favourite dish in my absolute favourite restaurant, the Kinoko Hiya Atsu (mushrooms, udon, broth, and walnut miso) at Koya. I've written about this dish a few times. The walnut miso has become the best possible reason for living, no word of a lie.
I know that at Koya they make the udon the traditional way, kneading by foot, so I added that to one of my reading breaks today. I used the recipe given here and was delighted by how simple the whole project was. I will be making them again.
I brought together a stock with vegetable broth and miso, finely sliced cabbage, oyster mushrooms, and enoki mushrooms. Light, plain, and simple, this broth is the perfect foil for the main object of my affection, the walnut miso.
God. I can't even come up with words for it. I am addicted to the stuff. Salty, sweet, full of umami flavour from the miso and crunch from the walnuts. And, as I discovered today, so damn easy to make. You can eat it on its own (strong!), in small bites with your noodles, or stirred into your soup. I do all three.
My own personal Koya, halfway across the world and in my own home? I'm delighted.
*****
Walnut Miso
1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and chopped
2 heaped tbsp. rice miso paste
1/2 tsp. umeboshi vinegar
1/2 tsp. tamari
1 heaped tbsp. unrefined sugar
1 tsp. water
1. Blitz all the ingredients in the blender. Scoop into a jar and keep sealed up in the fridge for up to a week.
Oyster Mushrooms with Udon
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tbsp. rice miso paste
2 cups savoy cabbage, shredded
2 large oyster mushrooms, finely sliced
a handful enoki mushrooms, cut in half horizontally
2 spring onions, chopped
1 portion (about 2 cups) udon noodles, cooked, rinsed, and drained
1. Bring your stock and miso paste to a boil. Cook for about ten minutes, then season to taste. 2. Add your cabbage and oyster mushrooms and cook for a further five minutes, until tender. 3. Add in your enoki mushrooms, half your spring onions, and your cooked udon. Cook until just warmed, then serve with the remainder of your spring onions and a spoonful of walnut miso on the side.
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